Savvy Sourcing

21 07 2011

Below is the front cover and article I wrote for the summer, 2011 edition of City Weekend, Shanghai Home & Office.  All about sourcing and finding reliable suppliers.

Making History, Summer 2011

The Easy Life, Savvy Sourcing Article

Below is the full unabridged aritcle:

In order to find the most reliable, long-term supplier for your needs, you first need to define your scope, distribution, cost/retail price targets, and relationship expectations.  Once you define your needs, you will need to:

  • Search Online
  • Network, ask others in your industry
  • Attend Tradeshows
  • Travel to your ultimate supply chain country to source suppliers
  • Work via an Agent, Trading Firm, or Wholesaler
  • Buy direct from factory/supplier

The easiest and most difficult way to start looking for suppliers is online research, sourcing sites, blogs, and industry publications.   Sourcing sites are great, but on most sourcing sites suppliers are listed at the top of the search based on how much money they pay, not which has been in business the longest, or has the most successful track record, or relevant product to your needs.

Networking by attending industry related events in your community, talking to industry leaders online via blogs

Another option is traveling to the ultimate country which you want to source from; attending industry related sourcing trade fairs, best to go industry specific shows.  You can find about relevant fairs by searching online by product name, country and trade fair.  You can also speak to others within the industry.

Well traveling to your ultimate supply chain country you can hold in-person visits to the factory/supplier to verify and check out their systems, procedures, ethical, social responsibilities, and product quality.  Remember that what you see is not always what you get.  If you choose to do an audit yourself you will need to build your own internal requirements.   Alternatively you can hire a 3rd party like SGS, Intertex, Veriatas, or another industry specific established and trusted 3rd party who specializes in your industry to validate the potential suppliers systems, procedures, ethical, social responsibility.

You will now need to choose the type of relationship you are looking for?  That means are you looking to deal directly with the factory/supplier?  Utilize an Agent, Trading firm, or Wholesaler who can look after factory communication, production management, quality control, and shipping.  Depending on your purchasing quantities it is best to start buying through a wholesaler to validate the business and build your volumes.  Once you start to establish a sizeable order it would be best to go through a reliable and trusted agent or trading company to initial purchase your goods or materials as they can reduce your expenses by overseeing your production and deliverables.  Once established most business professionals prefer to deal direct but it is a fact agents and trading companies have a value hence why Walmart, Nordstroms, Costco, H&M, Zara and many other large institutions still utilize agents or trading companies because they recognize the value and importance.

In closing it is important to plan your business from the end product back to the raw materials, fully understand the product cycle, timelines, ethical and social responsibilities along the way and the costs of everything.  Look at the cost to do it yourself (employee salary, travel, time, expenses, trial and errors) vs. the cost of buying wholesale, via trading company or agent.  In regards to time requirements it can take as long as 6 to 12 months to create a product from concept to delivery at retail level, depending on your business (brand, wholesaler, or retailer) and product type.   One last comment if you are really good (H&M and Zara) and avoid being nitpicky (perfectionists) you can reduce this timeline to 6 – 12 weeks.

Jeffrey Clark has been building brands, importing and exporting products from Asia, Europe, North, Central and South America since 1989.  Jeffrey is based in Shanghai, China; more can be seen on his blog, http://jeffreyliving.com/ or on his B2B garment supply chain platform at http://sourcetheglobe.com/.





Xintiandi Style Mall Opening & Fashion Show Nov 16, 2010

16 11 2010

This post is a live post in regards to the new Xintiandi Style shopping Mall that opened in of all places Xintiandi, Shanghai.  Yesterday when I was in Xintiandi I noticed that there was a runway two blocks long from one end of Xintiandi to the other.  Below is a preview of the runway set up yesterday:

Xintiandi Style Runway Setup

After walking the runway, I decided to check out the mall… It looks fancy, sharp and classy.  I am sure it is expensive but the major challenge in Shanghai these days are there are many malls opening this fall alone.  The Xintiandi Style mall appeared to be 80% full with tenants but there were only a few people wondering throughout with most of the people not carrying bags from recent purchases.

Today I was back in Xintiandi for lunch and noticed further developments with the stage and decided it would be best to ask a staff member when the show would begin.  I was advised the show would begin at 2:00pm and it now was 1:40pm, so I decided to stick around to catch the action.  One problem is I had no camera with me, so the photos you are about to see are from my iPhone 3.

Xintiandi Style - View towards the new mall and stage

Xintiandi Style - Runway street crossing

VIP Entrance Staff and Security

The drinks that no one touched

VIP Sitting and Center Stage

Harley Davidson - Ride On - Show Opening

The Models - Kids take to the runway

 

Models - Son and Mom

 

Models on Runway

 

Models - Runway

 

Models - Runway

 

Models - Runway

 

Models - Runway

 

Models - Runway

 

Models - Runway

 

Models - Runway

 

The Runway from a models perspective

The show was long and after 20 minutes I decided it would be best to get back to work and share the action with you.

 

Always the best from Xintiandi in Shanghai to you…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 





Spin Expo, Sept 2010, Hong Kong Polytechnic University Fashion Show

16 11 2010

Immediately after the Santoni Fashion show there was another show highlighting the designs of students and teachers from Hong Kong Polytechnic University.  I decided it would be best to stick around as I had a great front row seat.

The show started off as a colorful and imaginative with lots of cutouts, imagery, and prints.  But then became dark and gloomy before the crisp White and light Grey techno inspirations hit the floor.  Then the runway changed again to an eclectic look followed by a feminine male, contemporary female and finished with futuristic look.

Below is a review of the show:

 

Featuring Spin Expo and Hong Kong Polytechnic University

Runway

My Cloudland by Libra Tang

Survival of the Fittest by To Kwok-wai

Runway

Antoni Gaudi by Cass Chow

Sempiternal by Jessica Lo

Animal Instinct by Victoria Cheung

BIO-Synthesis by Natalie Yau

Mercurial Femininity by Charlotte Ma

Runway Finale

All in all it there was a gamma of looks with varying fits, styles, finishes and looks… there was something for everyone.  I was hoping to list the designer names to each and every runway above, but that quickly became a F/T job, so instead if you would like to know who the designers were, please click here: HKPU Programme Rundown v2

Always the best from Shanghai to you… Peace, Love, and Happiness






Fabric markets

11 08 2010

I am writing about the fabric markets that have the attraction of designing and/or making your own products.  It is true that you can do both but be aware:

1)      Fabric markets are not tailors; they are sales people who have sales aids that are called tailors.  Really we are all tailors; it is taking your basic measurements.  For tops or jackets the measurements are: neck, shoulder, chest, waist, hip, front length, front chest, back, arm length and if it’s fitted they should also measure your bicep, forearm and wrist.   A tailor would also look at your body type and variances with our unique bodies.

2)      A style consultant is required to assess a person’s body type and personality, what really drive me nuts is when a foreigner is in Shanghai at the fabric markets and asks a sales person (tailor aka sales aid) a question about the style.   The individual they ask usually has never left China and has only seen pictures of other countries and is not in the business of style advice.

3)      Your fit is not their fit… In tailor markets there really is only one fit and it’s they’re fit… which I have noticed is never my fit.    I would call the fit a casual to classic fit, which is roomier with more allowance for error.  This is ok if this is the fit you desire.   For bottoms I noticed the standard rise on a men’s pant is 8.5 Chinese inches when I wear a 6.5 inch rise.  That is a huge difference in how high the pants will site on your hips.

4)      Measurements, did you know that there is a different measurement type in China Fabric markets?  This measurement is called Chinese inches which are different from North America inches.  Usually this measurement is used in smaller local factories, tailors, and sales offices.

  1. The great news is the Millimeters and Centimeters are the same and can be used a reference for measurement.  3.9 cm is equal to 1 Chinese inch (3.9cm), 10.5cm is equal to 3 Chinese Inches (3.5cm), and 34cm is equal to 10 Chinese inches (3.4cm).  67.4cm is equal to 20 inches (3.37cm).  134cm is equal to 40 Chinese inches (3.35cm).  So what we discover is there is no actual conversion type for cm or mm to Chinese inches.
  2. For traditional North America Inches to Chinese the measurements are, 13 1/8” (inches) is equal to 10 Chinese inches.  26 ¼” is equal to 20 Chinese inches.  39 3/8” is equal to 30 Chinese inches.   What we discover is there is 1.3125 North America Inches in a Chinese Inch.

5)      CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility), if you go to a fabric market, you maybe purchasing based on price, if it is price motivated you may be using child labor.  The fabric shop will utilize a maker (individual/factory) based on price.  Since it is one, two or three units you are purchasing it is easy to give to an individual sewer who will take home to sew.  During this process she/he may have children who participate in making the garment.  But in that country this maybe normal practice and maybe better than having the child beg for money or sell products on the street.

I have heard many horror stories from the fabric markets, but then again I have friends who are happy with the quality and fit of their purchases from the fabric markets and return on a regular basis for similar types of products.  I also know in-experienced foreign tailors and online B2C e-commerce sites who use the fabric markets to make (manufacture) their products for overseas clients.  As a trained professional I can notice the poor workmanship and finishing but for some clients the quality will suffice for the price they paid.

Another option is to go to more expensive fabric sales, tailors, style consultants who have an independent office and specialize in garment manufacturing.   These specialized tailors may utilize actual sewing factories.  The price for a specialized quality product can be three to four times the price you will pay in the fabric markets but you usually get a better quality fabric, fit, finishing, trims, and experience.

I own a style consultation and custom tailor business called Jeffrey Living that is based in Shanghai, China. I have made tailored products for clients in Canada, USA, and Malaysia with hand selected fabrics from Italy, Japan and China.   I also hand-pick the trims and garment finishing.  I work with legit superior quality factories with a of age work force and proper working conditions.   I have worked in the fashion business and Asia for over 20 years.  This is what I do out of a mad passion for fashion.

You can see more of my products on Daft Shopping, http://www.daftshopping.com/?type=all&category=32 or on my Flickr page, http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffreyliving/.  You can contact me directly about your needs or interests, my email is jeffreyliving@gmail.com.

If you have any comments you would like to add please leave below.





Tailored Clothing

8 08 2010

As some of you may know I have been involved in the Fashion business for over 20 years in Asia and for the past two years well living in Shanghai I have been making tailored clothing with actual factories and utilizing my 10,000+ contacts for suppliers.

I started off by making clothes for myself and this year started making clothing for clients in Canada, USA and Malaysia.  I have analyzed the competition and I believe I have superior sourcing, design, development, and garment knowledge.   Many believe this is a business I should pursue and I couldn’t agree more.  So now I am looking to grow this business into a full-time occupation.  I am looking for working and financial partners.  For working partners I am looking for a technology person (Global) and a sales/marketing, business development (North America and/or Europe).  I have prepared a one page overview, executive summary and over 50 pages of financial analysis.  Interested parties please contact me.

Now let’s get back to the product… I have handpicked fabrics from Italy, Japan, and China utilizing the highest caliber factories, finishing materials, sewing techniques and trims.

You can shop for my products on Daft Shopping, http://www.daftshopping.com/?type=all&category=32   or check out my Flickr page for a full listing, http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffreyliving/.  If you would like to have a three or two piece suit, blazer or shirt made of superior quality you know who to call.

Below is small selection of photos of products I have made:

Daft Shopping - Jeffrey Living product page

Contrast stripe L/S shirt with real shell buttons

Contrast Stripe shirt with real pearl buttons, hidden pocket and straight hem

Stripe shirt S/S with cargo pockets and fake leather buttons

Poplin S/S Neon contrast trim and stitch with cargo pockets and real pearl buttons

Stripe L/S Candy Cane shirt with thick resin buttons

Candy Cane shirt close up

Candy Cane close up, collar with collar stays, check out the quality of the finishing :)

Wool and Cashmere three-piece suit (Jacket and Vest) with Contrast Candy Cane cotton dress shirt.

Italian Wool Blazer with Cargo pockets, exterior watch or PDA pocket and Real Horn Buttons

Velveteen Blazer with patch pockets and real horn buttons

Wool check Blazer with patch pockets and real horn buttons

As mentioned above are only a few examples of products.  There are many more not shown here and even more in development.  Let me know your needs and interests???





Jeffrey Clark – Work History

9 07 2010

I have posted to Slide Share an available selection of past work I have been involved with over the last 22 years, Jeffrey Clark work history

I hope you enjoy the presentation, if you have any questions or are interested in my hiring me on a full-time or contract basis please contact me at the number or email on the last slide.

Best regards,

Jeffrey





China (Shanghai) International Textiles, Fabrics & Accessories Exhibition

23 06 2010

I am writing about the China (Shanghai) International Textiles, Fabrics & Accessories Exhibition I attended on June 9th,   the show ran from June 8th – 10th.  The trade show was held at one of the halls at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre.  There were four other trade shows held at the same time at this location and they were: China Shanghai International Fashion Production (OEM) Exhibition 2010 put on by the same organizer, 4th International Exhibition for Logistics, Telematics and Transport, Aluminum China 2010, and 104th China Stationary Fair.  Transportation was provided from Longyang Road subway station to the Expo centre, see below photo of transportation:

Transportation to the show from the Longyang subway station

Inside the expo centre there were four areas for registration and four entrances to attend each individual trade show.   See below photos of registration and entrance:

Fashion registration

Trade show entrance, pick your show

Inside the Textiles, Fabrics & Accessories hall some aisles were busy and others were not, see below photos from the trade show floor:

Main Aisle, one hall to the next

The first aisle at entrance, front to back

The last aisle, front to back

Below are some photos of discoveries in the Textiles, Fabrics & Accessories hall:

Sustainable - recycled PET (Polyester)

Sustainable - Cocotex, environmental and health benefits

Double faced, loose weave

Flannel with Metallic stitch

Crinkle Indigo

Melange Jersey

Baby Phat - Patch embroidery in chenille

3D Embroidery

3D Embroidery, no fill

3D Heat Transfer

Inside the Fashion Production hall there were less people but it was still busy, see below photo from the trade show floor:

Aisle near entrance, front to back

Below are some photos of discoveries in the Fashion Production hall:

Lamb Leather

Polyurethane (PU), fake leather, leatherette

Suiting (value)

Knit fashion top

Woven fashion skirt

Fashion fleece

In China, Guanxi (relationship) building is very important and it is also important to understand the customs and culture of the country see below photo of card presentation:

Two handed card display with bow

It was disappointing to see a handful of booths that were vacant, see below photos of exhibitors who did not show up:

No show exhibitor

No show exhibitor

Unmanned  booth

Like all the smaller shows there are a lot of challenges and it is easy to be disappointed, you need to be a good miner and look for the gems as there are great suppliers to be discovered.   There were no areas for fashion trends, news, and/or seminars.

All in all, I took a few hundred photos and gathered information on products for clients, these items will be stored for access on SourceTheGlobe.com in the near future.  If you see anything you like or need help with sourcing, developments, procurement, and management please let me know.  It is much easier to utilize someone who knows the right suppliers than attempting to train and educate the suppliers that you already have.

My conclusion is it’s another textile and fashion trade fair in China that is held in Shanghai; a few of the suppliers that exhibit in this show do the circuit and exhibit in multiple shows.  The show was lacking excitement and energy.  It needs something special to give it some staying power.

Happy Sourcing… 





Louis in Mainland China

16 05 2010

I couldn’t help but notice that the new Louis Vuitton store had finally opened on Huahai Road in Shanghai and to celebrate the opening there was a line up a dozen people strong that wouldn’t go away.

New Louis Vuitton store - line up - Huahai Road, Shanghai

I really liked their window, which is featured in the photo below:

Louis Vuitton store window - Huahai Road, Shanghai

I wonder if they are curious onlookers or real shoppers?  One thing for sure Louis has its game on, every time I walk by a Louis store in Mainland China its busy and their branding is executed with a confidence similar to their products.

In addition to the new opening on Huahai Lu (Road) they are renovating their flagship store on Nanjing Xi Lu (West Road).  See below photos:

Louis Vuitton Flagship packaging

Louis Vuitton Flagship packaging - Head-on

If you would like to share anything about Louis, please leave a comment… Happy shopping





Changing Fashions

10 05 2010

I am writing this post about an article I wrote about Changing Fashions that was published in Chaina Magazine this month, http://www.supplychains.com/chainamag/, the article is on page 14 and 15 here is the online magazine link, http://en.calameo.com/read/000184943281bc583b8bb.  You can view the PDF by clicking this link: Column-Jeffrey

The article reviews the changing show floors from 2008 til now at trade fairs in the Apparel industry.








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