Savvy Sourcing

21 07 2011

Below is the front cover and article I wrote for the summer, 2011 edition of City Weekend, Shanghai Home & Office.  All about sourcing and finding reliable suppliers.

Making History, Summer 2011

The Easy Life, Savvy Sourcing Article

Below is the full unabridged aritcle:

In order to find the most reliable, long-term supplier for your needs, you first need to define your scope, distribution, cost/retail price targets, and relationship expectations.  Once you define your needs, you will need to:

  • Search Online
  • Network, ask others in your industry
  • Attend Tradeshows
  • Travel to your ultimate supply chain country to source suppliers
  • Work via an Agent, Trading Firm, or Wholesaler
  • Buy direct from factory/supplier

The easiest and most difficult way to start looking for suppliers is online research, sourcing sites, blogs, and industry publications.   Sourcing sites are great, but on most sourcing sites suppliers are listed at the top of the search based on how much money they pay, not which has been in business the longest, or has the most successful track record, or relevant product to your needs.

Networking by attending industry related events in your community, talking to industry leaders online via blogs

Another option is traveling to the ultimate country which you want to source from; attending industry related sourcing trade fairs, best to go industry specific shows.  You can find about relevant fairs by searching online by product name, country and trade fair.  You can also speak to others within the industry.

Well traveling to your ultimate supply chain country you can hold in-person visits to the factory/supplier to verify and check out their systems, procedures, ethical, social responsibilities, and product quality.  Remember that what you see is not always what you get.  If you choose to do an audit yourself you will need to build your own internal requirements.   Alternatively you can hire a 3rd party like SGS, Intertex, Veriatas, or another industry specific established and trusted 3rd party who specializes in your industry to validate the potential suppliers systems, procedures, ethical, social responsibility.

You will now need to choose the type of relationship you are looking for?  That means are you looking to deal directly with the factory/supplier?  Utilize an Agent, Trading firm, or Wholesaler who can look after factory communication, production management, quality control, and shipping.  Depending on your purchasing quantities it is best to start buying through a wholesaler to validate the business and build your volumes.  Once you start to establish a sizeable order it would be best to go through a reliable and trusted agent or trading company to initial purchase your goods or materials as they can reduce your expenses by overseeing your production and deliverables.  Once established most business professionals prefer to deal direct but it is a fact agents and trading companies have a value hence why Walmart, Nordstroms, Costco, H&M, Zara and many other large institutions still utilize agents or trading companies because they recognize the value and importance.

In closing it is important to plan your business from the end product back to the raw materials, fully understand the product cycle, timelines, ethical and social responsibilities along the way and the costs of everything.  Look at the cost to do it yourself (employee salary, travel, time, expenses, trial and errors) vs. the cost of buying wholesale, via trading company or agent.  In regards to time requirements it can take as long as 6 to 12 months to create a product from concept to delivery at retail level, depending on your business (brand, wholesaler, or retailer) and product type.   One last comment if you are really good (H&M and Zara) and avoid being nitpicky (perfectionists) you can reduce this timeline to 6 – 12 weeks.

Jeffrey Clark has been building brands, importing and exporting products from Asia, Europe, North, Central and South America since 1989.  Jeffrey is based in Shanghai, China; more can be seen on his blog, http://jeffreyliving.com/ or on his B2B garment supply chain platform at http://sourcetheglobe.com/.





Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Fair

28 11 2010

I am writing about the Intertextile trade fair that was held in Shanghai, China from October 19 – 22, 2010.  The show was held in conjunction with the Cinte Techtextil China Fair which ran in one hall (W5) from October 19 – 21.  The Intertextile fair was held in ten other halls (W and E) in two buildings at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre.

This was my fourth time attending the Intertextile fair since moving to China in 2008.  Thankfully I planned my return flight from Toronto and New York to Shanghai on October 18th (arrival on 19th) so I could attend the fair on the 20th through 22nd.

I decided to take the subway as there was a new station (line 7, Huama Road) that recently opened that went directly to the Expo centre.  The subway was brisk on the 2nd day but crowed on the third and final day.  The travel time (40 minutes one-way) was comparable depending on the traffic and the cost savings was 8rmb vs 80rmb by cab from Xintiandi (return).  For most the subway is about convenience, minimal lines, minimal delays, no bargaining, or difficulties with explaining directions or location.

The second day of the fair I arrived at 10:00am and needed to register, thankfully there were now two registration areas and the one I choose was closer to the subway station and hall W5.  The other was 5 halls (15 minute walk) away between hall W and E and was the main registration area.  Picture below from the secondary registration area:

Intertextile Fair Registration

It was particularly nice to see that no cameras or mobile phones were allowed in the fairs as well they had really high fencing in case some decided to climb over to cut into line.  I think it was unnecessary but amusing. Once I got through the fence maze I was inside the registration area but was redirected back outside to the other side where I needed to fill in the registration form.  See below photos from the registration form counter and the line up once you completed the registration form.

Registration Area

Outside line up to submit registration form

Once I completed the form, I decided to look for alternatives to the half hour line to submit my registration, so I went back inside and spoke to some staff and was allowed to check in quickly as an international attendee, from registration entrance to the show entrance it took seven minutes.

Fair Entrance - badge scanning

Once in the hall I quickly located the area where I could pick up and show directory and map in exchange for two business cards.  At that point I decided it would be a good opportunity to catch the view from upstairs looking over the show floor:

Photo from the show floor

Now it was time to find fabrics for my clients as per their very specific needs.   For the next three days I walked endlessly up and down every isle of interest looking for the one needle in the haystack.  Thankfully I found a hundred potential suppliers, see below photos of some of the fabrics I selected for the client’s needs:

Woven shirting - 80x80, 140x120

Woven shirting - double-faced 40x40

Woven shirting - water brushed 80/2x80/2, 160x90

Woven shirting - Two sided brushed 32x32, 90x80

Knit shirts – Polyester Linen

Woven bottom - Right hand twill, Cotton, Polyester, Spandex

Woven outerwear - Polyester, 50Dx50D, 185x106

Woven Outerwear - Nylon, Polyester

Woven outerwear - 100% Nylon

Knit outerwear - 100% wool

Knit outerwear - 100% wool

Knit jacket - Acrylic Wool

Woven outerwear - Wool, Nylon

Woven outerwear - Wool, Nylon

Knit jackets - 100% Wool

Throughout the show I noticed multiple areas that highlighted country, fabric and trim trend areas.  It was enforced that there was no photography allowed, and security staff were on hand to make sure you were not taking pictures.  Thankfully during the show I stopped by the show office and got a media badge (photography allowed) and was allowed to share the photos below with you:

Japan Fashion Week (JFW) - Japan Creation

JFW - Garment inspirations

JFW - Garment inspirations

JFW - Theme inspirations

JFW - Fabric inspirations

Intertextile - Autumn/Winter 2011/2012 Fabric trends

Intertextile - Layers of time fabric trends

Intertextile - Fabric trends (no photography sign)

Intertextile - Fabric trends

Intertextile - Northern shelter garment inspirations

Intertextile - Trim Trends

Intertextile - Trim trends

Throughout the show lots of people were looking for a place to rest, sleep or eat below were a few options with attendees and exhibitors seizing the moments away:

Outdoor bench - fresh air or smoke?

Indoor seating - Rest or sleep

Indoor seating - sleepy time

All in all the Intertextile show is one of the most informative fabric shows in Asia.  I find that the Shanghai show is usually twice the size of the Beijing show.   If you are making clothes and buying fabrics this is a great fair to attend.  If you are unable to attend make sure you send someone on your behalf.

Happy fabric sourcing from Shanghai, China.





Ningxia Buying Mission (Lingwu) Cashmere Industrial Park – Part III

27 09 2010

This is a continuation from the afternoon of the 2nd day of the Ningxia Buying Mission.  After a fabulous lunch we were back on the bus and heading to the Cashmere Industrial Park to check on a few yarn, knitting, and garment making operators.

It was a large of group of buyers led by delegates, factory general managers and VIP’s, see below photo from the parking lot:

Buyers, Delegates, General Managers, and VIP's

We arrived into the first factory which was spotless with pristine machines churning out the cashmere fibers (Goat hair) to yarn.  Below are photos from the animal fiber conversion to the final products:

Cashmere Fiber Machines

Cashmere fibers in the Machine

Cashmere Fiber Machine

Cashmere fiber being bagged

Cashmere Fiber Churning

Colored Fiber Collection

Endless technology for yarn

Non-stop efficiency

The final product - Cashmere bedding

The Final Product - Cashmere dress

The Final Product - Cashmere sweater/jacket

We then went to our second factory which was again spotless with pristine machines which was converting the yarns to final products:

endless Cashmere yarn machines

Purple Cashmere yarn made just for you

Magical world of Cashmere

Cashmere production line - finishing

Attaching the seams, one needle at a time

Cashmere production - quality control light box

The final product - Cashmere sweater

The final product - cashmere sweater

All in all in was a fabulous educational and enlightening day… meeting a good group of people and seeing the world of how cashmere is made… and that there are actually a few Cashmere Industrial Park’s in the world.

Happy Cashmere sourcing from Northwest China…





Fabric markets

11 08 2010

I am writing about the fabric markets that have the attraction of designing and/or making your own products.  It is true that you can do both but be aware:

1)      Fabric markets are not tailors; they are sales people who have sales aids that are called tailors.  Really we are all tailors; it is taking your basic measurements.  For tops or jackets the measurements are: neck, shoulder, chest, waist, hip, front length, front chest, back, arm length and if it’s fitted they should also measure your bicep, forearm and wrist.   A tailor would also look at your body type and variances with our unique bodies.

2)      A style consultant is required to assess a person’s body type and personality, what really drive me nuts is when a foreigner is in Shanghai at the fabric markets and asks a sales person (tailor aka sales aid) a question about the style.   The individual they ask usually has never left China and has only seen pictures of other countries and is not in the business of style advice.

3)      Your fit is not their fit… In tailor markets there really is only one fit and it’s they’re fit… which I have noticed is never my fit.    I would call the fit a casual to classic fit, which is roomier with more allowance for error.  This is ok if this is the fit you desire.   For bottoms I noticed the standard rise on a men’s pant is 8.5 Chinese inches when I wear a 6.5 inch rise.  That is a huge difference in how high the pants will site on your hips.

4)      Measurements, did you know that there is a different measurement type in China Fabric markets?  This measurement is called Chinese inches which are different from North America inches.  Usually this measurement is used in smaller local factories, tailors, and sales offices.

  1. The great news is the Millimeters and Centimeters are the same and can be used a reference for measurement.  3.9 cm is equal to 1 Chinese inch (3.9cm), 10.5cm is equal to 3 Chinese Inches (3.5cm), and 34cm is equal to 10 Chinese inches (3.4cm).  67.4cm is equal to 20 inches (3.37cm).  134cm is equal to 40 Chinese inches (3.35cm).  So what we discover is there is no actual conversion type for cm or mm to Chinese inches.
  2. For traditional North America Inches to Chinese the measurements are, 13 1/8” (inches) is equal to 10 Chinese inches.  26 ¼” is equal to 20 Chinese inches.  39 3/8” is equal to 30 Chinese inches.   What we discover is there is 1.3125 North America Inches in a Chinese Inch.

5)      CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility), if you go to a fabric market, you maybe purchasing based on price, if it is price motivated you may be using child labor.  The fabric shop will utilize a maker (individual/factory) based on price.  Since it is one, two or three units you are purchasing it is easy to give to an individual sewer who will take home to sew.  During this process she/he may have children who participate in making the garment.  But in that country this maybe normal practice and maybe better than having the child beg for money or sell products on the street.

I have heard many horror stories from the fabric markets, but then again I have friends who are happy with the quality and fit of their purchases from the fabric markets and return on a regular basis for similar types of products.  I also know in-experienced foreign tailors and online B2C e-commerce sites who use the fabric markets to make (manufacture) their products for overseas clients.  As a trained professional I can notice the poor workmanship and finishing but for some clients the quality will suffice for the price they paid.

Another option is to go to more expensive fabric sales, tailors, style consultants who have an independent office and specialize in garment manufacturing.   These specialized tailors may utilize actual sewing factories.  The price for a specialized quality product can be three to four times the price you will pay in the fabric markets but you usually get a better quality fabric, fit, finishing, trims, and experience.

I own a style consultation and custom tailor business called Jeffrey Living that is based in Shanghai, China. I have made tailored products for clients in Canada, USA, and Malaysia with hand selected fabrics from Italy, Japan and China.   I also hand-pick the trims and garment finishing.  I work with legit superior quality factories with a of age work force and proper working conditions.   I have worked in the fashion business and Asia for over 20 years.  This is what I do out of a mad passion for fashion.

You can see more of my products on Daft Shopping, http://www.daftshopping.com/?type=all&category=32 or on my Flickr page, http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffreyliving/.  You can contact me directly about your needs or interests, my email is jeffreyliving@gmail.com.

If you have any comments you would like to add please leave below.





All About You – Products Tailored for You

11 02 2010

I miss designing clothes and have made clothes secretly well I am in China.  I will be launching a branch of Source the Globe Limited as a label that is “All About You”.  Custom tailored clothing with unique and modern styling, now under the label Jeffrey Living.   I have listed some examples of tailored items below:

Jeffrey Living, Fitted Gingham Contrast Shirt

Jeffrey Living, Fitted 2 button Wool Blazer with Flap pockets

You can check out more product photos on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40506762@N08/.  I will be adding other products to the site as available, eventually it will be clothing, jewelry, and fashion accessories.  All in preparation for the year of the Tiger… Roar :)   Let me know if you see something you like for yourself or someone else.   Cheers










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